When the casual breakfast spot Rustic Mornings opened 10 years ago in a small alleyway in Marikina, owner Portia Baluyut Magsino projected about six months to a year for people to discover the place.
Two months in and she was fully booked. But what seemed like a successful feat was actually one of the worst days of Magsino’s life.
“I had a really bad experience with a customer. I don’t blame her. The food took two hours before it got to her table. It was that bad! It was my fault,” Magsino says.
Similar to her private dining restaurant she single-handedly operated called Isabelo, Magsino did everything herself. She sourced and shopped for ingredients, welcomed guests, cooked and served the food, and even worked the cash register.
I was at the cash register when the customer asked me, ‘Are you the owner?’ I said yes. And the customer said, ‘Is this your dream? You have no right to your dream. You should close this down.’
“After cooking tocino, I ran to the cash register to bill out. I was understaffed. I was at the cash register when the customer asked me, ‘Are you the owner?’ I said yes. And the customer said, ‘Is this your dream? You have no right to your dream. You should close this down.’ And I remembered her name for a while because she paid with her credit card,” Magsino recalls.
Incidents like this can deflate motivation but for Magsino, it prompted her to contemplate her next steps better. “I couldn’t continue like that. That was the time I said that I needed to hire somebody who knew the business. So I hired a restaurant manager and she taught me the ropes. We put up a commissary, hired more people, and I learned how to delegate and trust people to do things. I realized I just needed to train them.”
Mother of innovation
Previous customers who visited the restaurant will still recognize the familiar and cozy feel of the place. Mosaic-tiled floors, curtains made of shells, and mix-and-match wrought iron chairs have been here since the restaurant started and contribute to its charm.
Found objects such as old wine and perfume bottles line narrow shelves next to countless framed artwork by Magsino’s mother who also designed the commissioned stoneware plates and cups from Lanelle Abueva.
“This is all my mom’s idea. Everything you see here is my mom’s art. This is her personality,” she says.
“I remember I would tell her, ‘Ma, why don’t you move the chair here, or the table there?” And in her very ‘madame’ look she would say, ‘Don’t mess with my design if you don’t want me to mess with your kitchen,’” laughs Portia Baluyut Magsino.
“I remember I would tell her, ‘Ma, why don’t you move the chair here, or the table there?” And in her very ‘madame’ look she would say, ‘Don’t mess with my design if you don’t want me to mess with your kitchen,’” laughs Magsino.
“She was my encourager. She supported me. It was [through] her being frugal that she was able to create beautiful art. Most of the things you see here are scrap and repurposed.”
Gender specifics
Magsino, together with her two sisters, was brought up single-handedly by their mother. “I was raised by a very strong woman… and my mom would call us Amazonas,” she says.
Growing up in such a supportive environment with strong female role models enabled Magsino to dream big and to remember what is important to her—despite the scarcity of women-led characters in the industry.
According to Forbes, “women occupy only 6.3 percent of the head chef positions at prominent US restaurant groups, whereas 6.6 percent of Fortune 500 CEOs are female.”
“When women support you, it’s easier to be brave. Being surrounded and being supported by women can help a lot,” Magsino admits. “If you have that community where you can share your problems whether personal or in business, it’s easier for you to carry on.”
Rustic Mornings rises again
Like many restaurateurs, 2020 was a challenging year for her. Not only did she have to find ways to support her staff through very slim returns from delivery and takeout, but Typhoon Ulysses also ravaged the restaurant.
Positioned near the banks of the Marikina River, Rustic Mornings was submerged, with the water level reaching almost two meters high. But with the help of friends and loyal customers, it took only two weeks for Rustic Mornings to return to operations.
Like many restaurateurs, 2020 was a challenging year for her. Not only did she have to find ways to support her staff through very slim returns from delivery and takeout, but Typhoon Ulysses also ravaged the restaurant.
“I was surprised that so many helped us. A friend of mine sent 15 workers to help with the damage. Another sent a firetruck. Customers would send food over. I realized that our service throughout the years, it all comes back to you,” says Magsino.
Being in the industry for a decade is no easy accomplishment. Magsino has a few observations as to how they lasted this long. “Don’t fix what isn’t broken. Of course, I had little changes along the way. I always look at my numbers and see what I can improve. I noticed that my sandwiches weren’t selling so I thought maybe my customers weren’t here for sandwiches. Maybe after a week of hard work, they want to relax and just eat something more indulgent. I never changed my portions or the quality and taste of my food. Be consistent with your food and service.”
Magsino is a Christian and attributes how she runs the restaurant to her faith. “I want everything that I do to glorify the Lord. Many of my staff have been with me for 10 years. They’ve grown to love the restaurant and the brand,” she says.
“Be a good employer to your staff. How? By giving them what’s rightfully theirs. Let’s start with the service charge. I don’t get any. One hundred percent goes to them. It pays to be kind to them. If you’re kind to them, they’re kind to your customers.”
“Be a good employer to your staff. How? By giving them what’s rightfully theirs. Let’s start with the service charge. I don’t get any. One hundred percent goes to them. It pays to be kind to them. If you’re kind to them, they’re kind to your customers.”
On the subject of kindness, Rustic Mornings’ 10th anniversary renovation plans are meant to push itself harder into a fresher future and to electrify her vision of what a rustic morning should feel like.
“I just like a modest home—unpretentious. When I open my window, I see my garden. I have nice, clean and crisp white sheets. When I go out without my slippers on, I feel the grass on my feet. There’s no one around that says ‘bacon’s bad for you!’ and I’m drinking freshly squeezed orange juice.”