In March 2020, the first COVID-19 lockdown motivated thousands to sell baked goods to while away time or earn extra cash. Sourdough bread and ube-cheese pandesal were among the many fads that crowded social media, only to inevitably fizzle out.
Eventually, numerous flash-in-the-pan food businesses closed as society acclimatized to the pandemic, yielding to tried-and-true bakehouses that had always dominated and saturated the market.
For one competent and determined baker, however, the lockdown was not a momentary opportunity—rather it was an impetus to defy the odds and fulfill her culinary dreams.
Founded by Kay Sagarbarria, who previously owned L.A. Times-featured House of Silvanas, Dough and Oven thrives through rave online reviews, word-of-mouth, and quality that speaks for itself.
Founded by Kay Sagarbarria, who previously owned L.A. Times-featured House of Silvanas, Dough and Oven thrives through rave online reviews, word-of-mouth, and quality that speaks for itself.
Having moved to California after finishing a hotel and restaurant management course in Manila, Sagarbarria started House of Silvanas in Los Angeles as an extension of their family’s Manila-based bakeshop. There, she developed an interest in baking breads as she noticed a niche for traditional Filipino bread like monay and pandesal.
To hone her skills, she pursued a baking and pastry course while managing House of Silvanas. She graduated with honors two years later and eventually moved back to Dumaguete.
Meanwhile, Dumaguete saw—and continues to see—no shortage of breads, cakes, and pastries. Be it budget options such as siacoy (deep-fried twisted donuts) from Julie’s Bakeshop to more expensive selections like Sans Rival’s highly acclaimed silvanas (French buttercream-filled meringue cookies), local businesses and franchises fulfill the city’s hunger for baked goods.
While these circumstances would have deterred many from opening their own bakeshop within the city, they did not dissuade Sagarbarria.
“I worked for Sans Rival for a time, as it was my grandmother’s bakeshop-turned-family business, but the dream of selling my own quality bread was still there,” Sagarbarria says. “I ultimately left the family business after my dad passed away. I took a hiatus from baking for almost a year before I decided to give my dream of owning my own bakery a shot.”
From kitchen experiments to setting up shop
Sagarbarria began operations for Dough and Oven from her home kitchen alongside accepting orders for specific cravings from friends and family. She experimented with different recipes, offering samples of her breads while welcoming all feedback.
Unexpectedly, word spread of Sagarbarria’s creations in Dumaguete’s tight-knit community, prompting her to sell made-to-order goods online amid lockdowns.
“Because of the lockdowns, people wanted their bread delivered, and I delivered them fresh from the oven. My customer base grew exponentially, and I was struggling to keep up with all the deliveries,” she says.
Kay Sagarbarria sought to make baked products that were also popular across the Philippines yet hard to find in Dumaguete. For instance, she reimagined fried, cheese-filled doughnuts coated in sugar and powdered milk by creating a baked version of cheesy milk buns.
After the lockdowns were lifted and the alert levels downgraded, customers urged her to open a physical store where they could choose and pick up what they wanted without having to wait a day.
Finally, Dough and Oven’s brick and mortar opened along Hibbard Avenue in August 2021. Latecomers often miss out on its bestsellers: cheesy milk buns, Hokkaido bread, and pandesal.
Additionally, Dough and Oven features baguettes, ensaymadas (soft, sweet eggy buns), and cream cheese banana bread.
Standing out in a saturated market
Despite being surrounded by numerous bakeshops, Dough and Oven thrives as one of Dumaguete’s hidden gems—but how do they do it?
“My strategy for profitability in this saturated market is to keep things interesting. I post on social media and occasionally offer new products. I also strive to give good customer service; we do our best to exceed customer needs and expectations by accommodating all inquiries and requests courteously, happily, and in a timely manner,” says Sagarbarria, adding that she also keeps food costs below 40 percent.
Drawing inspiration particularly from both her own cravings, Sagarbarria sought to make baked products that were popular across the Philippines yet hard to find in Dumaguete. For instance, she reimagined the trend of fried, cheese-filled doughnuts coated in sugar and powdered milk by creating a baked version of cheesy milk buns.
A good number of Sagarbarria’s products are also customer cravings-turned-popular menu items such as a client’s order of sugarless French bread turned into a baguette with a crispy crust and soft crumb.
A good number of Sagarbarria’s products are also customer cravings-turned-popular menu items. A client’s order of sugarless French bread turned into a baguette with a crispy crust and soft crumb, while a friend’s request to replicate ube loaf brought about one of the store’s fan favorites: the full-flavored ube swirl.
While Sagarbarria tries her best to take most requests, the sort that she does turn down are those for customized cake designs, especially if they involve fondant. Orders for croissants and other similar pastries are also not yet accommodated; however, she plans to offer them in the future.
What’s up ahead for Dough and Oven?
More branches of Dough and Oven are set to be open possibly around Tanjay, Bais, Bacong, and Dauin as well as throughout Negros Island and nearby islands. Sagarbarria also aims to grow the bakery into a pasalubong stop and intends to connect with more suppliers of locally sourced ingredients.
Having accomplished the seemingly impossible task of penetrating a crowded market in the middle of a pandemic, Sagarbarria lends a few words of advice to aspiring food entrepreneurs.
“I have been fortunate to work with those who share my passion for making consistently good products. However, being open to suggestions and feedback—be it positive or negative—is essential to success. Do what you love and enjoy what you do. Don’t sacrifice quality for profit, and make products you can be proud of.”